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| Bubbles resulting from localized loss of adhesion
and lifting of the paint film from the underlying surface.
Possible Cause:
Applying oil based or alkyd paint over a damp or wet surface. Moisture
seeping into the home through the exterior walls (less likely
with latex paint). Exposure of latex paint film to high
humidity or moisture shortly after paint has dried, especially
if there was inadequate surface preparation.
Solution:
If blisters do not go all the way down to the substrate: Remove
blisters by scraping and sanding, and repaint with top quality
100% Acrylic Latex Interior Paint.
If blisters go down to the substrate: Remove the source of moisture,
if possible. Repair loose caulking; consider installing vents
or exhaust fans. Remove blisters as above, remembering to prime
with a top quality Primer before applying the top coat. |
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| Undesirable sticking together of two painted surfaces
when pressed together (e.g. a door sticking to the jamb).
Possible Cause:
Not allowing sufficient dry time for the coating before closing
doors or windows
Use of low quality semi-gloss or gloss paints.
Solution:
Use top quality Semi-Gloss 100% Acrylic Latex Paint. Low
quality latex paints can have poor block resistance, especially
in warm, damp conditions. Follow paint label instructions regarding
dry times. 100% Acrylic Latex Paints have excellent early block
resistance rather than vinyl latex paints, or alkyd or oil based
paints, however, alkyds develop superior block resistance over
time. Application of talcum powder can relieve persistent blocking. |
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| Increase in gloss or sheen of paint film when subjected
to rubbing, scrubbing or having an object brush up against it.
Possible Cause:
Use of flat paint in highly trafficked areas, where a higher sheen
level would be desirable. Frequent washing and spot cleaning. Objects
(furniture, for example) rubbing against the walls. Use
of lower grades of paint with poor stain and scrub resistance
(See poor
stain resistance and poor
scrub resistance).
Solution:
Paint heavy wear areas that require regular cleaning (e.g., doors,
window sills and trim) with top quality Latex Paint, because
this type of paint offers both durability and easier cleaning
capability. In high traffic areas, choose a paint with a higher
sheen level, such as a Semi-Gloss rather than a flat sheen
level. Clean painted surfaces with a soft cloth or sponge and
nonabrasive cleansers; rinse with clean water. |
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| Loss of caulks initial adhesion and flexibility,
causing it to crack and/or pull away from the surfaces to which
it is applied.
Possible Cause:
Use of lower quality caulk. Use of wrong type of caulk
for particular application (e.g., using latex or vinyl caulk in
areas where there is prolonged contact with water or considerable
movement of the caulked surfaces).
Solution:
Use a top quality water based acrylic or paintable caulk if prolonged
contact with water is not anticipated. These caulks are flexible
enough to adapt to minor fluctuations in the substrate, stretching
in gaps that widen slightly over time. They also adhere to
a wide range of interior building materials, including wood,
ceramic tile, concrete, glass, plaster, bare aluminum, brick
and plastic even in areas where moisture is present.
Note: Silicone caulk should not be painted. |
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| The splitting of a dry paint film through at least
one coat as a result of aging, which ultimately will lead to complete
failure of the paint. In its early stages, the problem appears
as hairline cracks; in its later stages, flaking occurs.
Possible Cause:
Use of a lower quality paint that has inadequate adhesion and
flexibility. Over thinning or over spreading the paint. Inadequate
surface preparation or applying the paint to bare wood without
first applying a primer. Excessive hardening and embrittlement
of alkyd paint as the paint job ages.
Solution:
Remove loose and flaking paint with scraper or wire brush, sanding
the surface and feathering the edges. If the flaking occurs in multiple
layers of paint, use of a filler may be necessary. Prime bare wood
areas before repainting. Use of an appropriate top quality primer
and 100% Acrylic top coat should prevent a recurrence of the problem. |
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| Formation of bubbles (foaming) and resulting small,
round concave depressions (cratering) when bubbles break in a
paint film, during paint application and drying.
Possible Cause:
Shaking a partially filled can of paint. Use of low quality
paint or very old latex paint. Applying (especially rolling)
paint too rapidly. Use of a roller cover with wrong nap
length. Excessive rolling or brushing of the paint . Applying
a gloss or semi-gloss paint over a porous surface
Solution:
All paints will foam to some degree during application; However,
top quality paints are formulated so the bubbles break while
the paint is still wet, allowing for good flow and appearance.
Avoid excessive rolling or brushing of the paint or using paint
that is more than a year old. Apply gloss and semi-gloss paints
with a short nap roller, and apply an appropriate top quality
sealer or primer before using such paint over a porous surface.
Problem areas should be sanded before repainting. |
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| Appearance of a denser colour or increased gloss
where wet and dry layers overlap during paint application.
Possible Cause:
Failure to maintain a "wet edge" when painting. Use
of a low solids "economy" paint.
Solution:
Maintain a wet edge when painting by applying paint toward the
unpainted area and then brush into the just painted surface.
This technique (brushing or rolling from "wet to dry," rather
than vice versa) will produce a smooth, uniform appearance.
It is also wise to work in manageable size areas; plan for
interruptions at a natural break, such as a window, door or
corner. Using top quality 100% Acrylic Latex Paint makes it
easier to avoid lapping problems because higher solids (pigments
and binder) content makes lapped areas less noticeable. If
substrate is very porous, it may need a primer/sealer to prevent
paint from drying too quickly and reducing wet edge time. Alkyd
paints generally have superior wet edge properties. |
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| Black, grey or brown spots or areas on the surface
of paint or caulk.
Possible Cause:
Forms most often on areas that tend to be damp, or receive little
or no direct sunlight (e.g., bathrooms, kitchens and laundry
rooms). Use of an alkyd or oil-based paint, or lower
quality latex paint . Failure to prime a bare wood surface
before applying the paint. Painting over a substrate
or coating on which mildew has not been removed.
Solution:
Test for mildew by applying a few drops of household bleach to
the area; if it is bleached away, the discolourant is probably
mildew. Remove all mildew from the surface by scrubbing with
a diluted household bleach solution (one part bleach, three
parts water), while wearing rubber gloves and eye protection. Rinse
thoroughly. To protect against mildew, use top quality
Latex Paint, and clean when necessary with bleach/detergent
solution. Consider installing an exhaust fan in high moisture
areas. |
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| Deep, irregular cracks resembling dried mud in dry
paint film.
Possible Cause:
Paint is applied too thickly, usually over a porous surface. Paint
is applied too thickly, to improve inherent poor hiding (coverage)
of a lower quality paint.
Paint is allowed to build up in corners upon application.
Solution:
Remove coating by scraping and sanding. Prime with the appropriate
top quality primer and repaint, using top quality 100% Acrylic
Latex Paint. Mud cracked areas can also be repaired by
sanding the surface smooth before repainting with 100% Acrylic
Latex Paint. This type of paint is likely to prevent recurrence
of mud cracking, because it is relatively more flexible than
alkyd paint, oil based paint and ordinary latex paint. Top
quality paints have a higher solids content, which reduces
the tendency to mud crack. They also have very good application
and hiding properties, which minimize the tendency to apply
too thick a coat of paint. |
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| An effect of non uniform colour that can appear
when a wall is painted with a roller, but is brushed at the corners.
The brushed areas generally appear darker, resembling the "frame" of
a "picture." Also, sprayed areas may be darker than
neighbouring sections that are brushed or rolled. Picture framing
can also refer to sheen effects.
Possible Cause:
Usually a hiding (coverage) effect. Brushing will generally
result in lower spread rates than rolling, producing a thicker
film and more hiding.
Adding colorant to a non-tintable paint or using the wrong type
or level of colorant.
Solution:
Make sure that spread rates with brushes and rollers are similar.
Don't cut in the entire room before roller coating. Work in
smaller sections of the room to maintain a "wet edge." With
tinted paints, be sure the correct colorant base combinations
are used. Factory colours, as well as in-store tints, should
be thoroughly shaken at time of sale.
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| Failure of paint to dry to a smooth film, resulting
in unsightly brush and roller marks after the paint dries.
Possible Cause:
Use of lower quality paint. Application of additional paint
to "touch up" partially dried painted areas. Re-brushing
or re-rolling partially dried painted areas.
Use of the wrong type of roller cover or poor quality brush.
Solution:
Use top quality 100% Acrylic Latex Paints, which are formulated
with ingredients that enhance paint flow. Brush and roller
marks thus tend to "flow out" and form a smooth film.
When using a roller be sure to use a cover with the recommended
nap length for the type of paint being used. Use of a high
quality brush is important; a poor brush can result in bad
flow and levelling with any paint.
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| Failure of dried paint to obscure or "hide" the
surface to which it is applied.
Possible Cause:
Use of a low quality paint . Use of low quality tools/wrong
roller cover. Use of an improper combination of tinting
base and tinting colour. Poor flow and levelling (see poor
flow/levelling). Use of a paint that is much lighter
in colour than the substrate, or that primarily contains low hiding
organic pigments. Application of paint at a higher spread
rate than recommended
Solution:
If the substrate is significantly darker or is patterned wallpaper,
it should be primed before applying a top coat. use top quality
100% Acrylic paint for better hiding and flow. Use quality
tools; use the recommended roller nap, if rolling. Follow manufacturer's
recommendation on spread rate; if using tinted paint, use the
correct tinting base. Where a low hiding organic colour must
be used, apply a primer first.
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| Tendency of paint film to take on the imprint of
an object that is placed on it (e.g., a shelf, table, window sill
or countertop with books, dishes and other object on them).
Possible Cause:
Use of low quality semi-gloss or gloss paint. Putting a
painted surface back into use before paint has fully dried.
Solution:
Use top quality 100% Acrylic Semi-Gloss or gloss latex paint.
Low quality latex semi-gloss and gloss paints can have poor
print resistance, especially in warm, damp conditions. Acrylic
latex paints generally have better print resistance than vinyl
latex paints. Fully cured alkyd paints also have excellent
print resistance. Make sure the recommended "cure" time
is allowed for the paint before it is put into service. Cool
or humid conditions require more curing time. |
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| Wearing away or removal of the paint film when scrubbed
with a brush, sponge, or cloth.
Possible Cause:
Choosing the wrong sheen for the area. Use of a lower quality
paint. Use of an overly aggressive scrub medium (see burnishing).
Solution:
Areas that need frequent cleaning require 100% Acrylic Paint formulated
to provide such performance. High traffic areas may require
a semi-gloss or gloss paint rather than a flat paint to provide
good scrub resistance. Allow adequate dry time, as scrub resistance
will not fully develop until the paint is thoroughly cured.
Typically, this will be one week. Try washing the painted surface
with the least abrasive material and mildest detergent first.
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| Shiny spots or dull spots (also known as "flashing")
on a painted surface; uneven gloss.
Possible Cause:
Uneven spread rate. Failure to properly prime a porous surface,
or surface with varying degrees of porosity. Poor application
resulting in lapping (see lapping).
Solution:
New substrates should be primed/sealed with a top quality primer-sealer
before applying a top coat to ensure a uniformly porous surface.
Without the use of a primer or sealer, a second coat of paint
will more likely be needed. Make sure to apply paint from "wet
to dry" to prevent lapping. Often, applying an additional
coat will even out sheen irregularities.
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Failure of the paint to resist absorption of dirt
and stains.
Possible Cause:
Use of lower quality paint that is porous in nature. Application
of paint to unprimed substrate.
Solution:
Top quality Latex Paints contain more binder, which help prevent
stains from penetrating the painted surface, allowing for easy
removal. Priming new surfaces with a top quality primer
provides maximum film thickness of a premium top coat, providing
very good stain removeablity.
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| Tendency of a roller to throw off small droplets
of paint during application.
Possible Cause:
Use of exterior paint on an interior surface. Use of lower
grades of latex paints.
Solution:
Top quality paints are formulated to minimize spattering. Using
high quality rollers which have proper resiliency further reduces
spattering. Overloading the roller with paint will result in
excess spatter, as will overworking the paint once it is applied
to a substrate. Working in three feet square sections, applying
the paint in a zigzag "M" or "W" pattern
and then filling in the pattern will also lessen the likelihood
of spattering. For ceilings, we recommend using Ceiling Paints,
as they are designed specifically for maximum spatter resistance.
For stucco ceilings, determine if the ceiling has been previously
painted. If no, use Alkyd-based Ceiling Paint
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| Black, grey or brown spots or areas on the surface
of paint or caulk.
Possible Cause:
Forms most often on areas that tend to be damp, or receive little
or no direct sunlight (e.g., bathrooms, kitchens and laundry
rooms). Use of an alkyd or oil-based paint, or lower
quality latex paint . Failure to prime a bare wood surface
before applying the paint. Painting over a substrate
or coating on which mildew has not been removed.
Solution:
Test for mildew by applying a few drops of household bleach to
the area; if it is bleached away, the discolourant is probably
mildew. Remove all mildew from the surface by scrubbing with
a diluted household bleach solution (one part bleach, three
parts water), while wearing rubber gloves and eye protection. Rinse
thoroughly. To protect against mildew, use top quality
Latex Paint, and clean when necessary with bleach/detergent
solution. Consider installing an exhaust fan in high moisture
areas. |
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| Downward "drooping" movement of the paint
film immediately after application, resulting in an uneven coating.
Possible Cause:
Application of a heavy coat of paint. Application in excessively
humid and/or cool conditions. Application of over thinned
paint. Airless spraying with the gun too close to the substrate
being painted.
Solution:
If paint is still wet, immediately brush out or reroll to redistribute
the excess evenly. If the paint has dried, sand and reapply
a new coat of top quality paint. Correct any unfavourable condition:
Do not thin the paint, avoid cool or humid condition as well
as sand glossy surfaces. Paint should be applied at its
recommended spread rage; avoid "heaping on" the paint.
Two coats of paint at the recommended spread are better than
one heavy coat, which can also lead to sagging. Consider removing
doors to paint them supported horizontally.
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| Concentration of water-soluble ingredients on the
surface of latex paint, typically on a ceiling surface in rooms
that have high humidity (e.g., shower, bathroom, kitchen); may
be evident as tan or brown spots or areas, and can sometimes be
glossy, soapy or sticky.
Possible Cause:
All latex paint formulas will exhibit this tendency to some extent
if applied in areas that become humid (bathrooms, for example),
especially in ceiling areas.
Solution:
Wash the affected area with soap and water, and rinse. Problem
may occur once or twice again before leachable material is
completely removed. When paint is applied in a bathroom, it
is helpful to have it dry thoroughly before using the shower.
Remove all staining before repainting.
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| A rough, crinkled paint surface, which occurs when
uncured paint forms a "skin".
Possible Cause:
Paint applied too thickly (more likely when using alkyd or oil-based
paints). Painting during extremely hot weather or cool
damp weather, which causes the paint film to dry faster on
top than on the bottom. Exposing uncured paint to high
humidity levels. Applying top coat of paint to insufficiently
cured primer. Painting over contaminated surface (e.g.,
dirt or wax).
Solution:
Scrape or sand substrate to remove wrinkled coating. If using
a primer allow it to dry completely before applying top coat.
Repaint (avoiding extreme temperatures & humidity), applying
an even coat of top quality 100% Acrylic Interior Paint.
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SqlServer of a yellow cast in aging paint; most
noticeable in the dried films of white paints or clear varnishes
Possible Cause:
Oxidation of alkyd or oil-based paint or varnish. Heat from
stoves, radiators and heating ducts. Lack of light (e.g.,
behind pictures or appliances, inside closets, etc.).
Solution:
Top quality 100% Acrylic Latex Paints do not tend to yellow, nor
do varnishes. Alkyd paints, because of their curing mechanism,
do tend to yellow, particularly in areas that are protected
from sunlight.
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